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      讓靈魂附在另一個骨架里,去追逐和感受另一個人生,或平淡如水,或光怪陸離,那些都是你不曾擁有,卻極致渴望的世界......
      當前時間:2019-07-18 21:44:51
      1. 愛閱小說
      2. 都市
      3. 武漢老街傳奇
      4. 一 武昌篇:戶部巷

      一 武昌篇:戶部巷

      更新于:2018-03-17 11:09:08 字數:2731

        戶部巷何時成的美食巷,沒人記得清楚;有幾樣美食,沒人答得確鑿。這做小吃營生,也跟鐵打營盤流水兵一樣。戶部巷與眾不同的地方,是小吃營生大多是世家經營,這多少會讓人記住一些美食的名字。好比郝七先生問小謝說,你給我“好吃先生”說說,這戶部巷里面,倒底有哪樣叫得響的小吃?

        小謝答,叫得響的?多咧,陳氏紅油牛肉面、萬氏米酒、李記燒梅、徐記糊湯粉,還有李貴的熱干面……。郝七先生一笑說,還有你的小謝面窩哩,我覺得也是頂好的!

        民以食為天,民以食為樂,到戶部巷,注定要當“好吃佬”。走進巷子里,看得眼花繚亂,聞得香味撲鼻,肚里的饞蟲哪有按捺得住的道理?店家們概莫能外,也是要食人間煙火的,你家品我家,我家嘗你家,相互之間也是火熟火熱。

        郝七先生所說小謝面窩,乃是店家小謝夫婦經營的一樣早點小吃,圓窩窩樣,四周肥厚,中間脆薄,謂之“面窩”。這東西小謝也是祖傳,說不清道不明什么人發明,又是怎么傳到他家的。只知道他爹那時,就挑小擔沿街叫賣面窩了。東跑西顛得膩乏了,便在戶部巷租屋住下。傳到小謝手里時,小謝聰明,不墨守成規,肯動心琢磨,手藝更加純熟。只見他左手用一特制窩勺盛漿,右手用一長柄圓勺舀漿,右手勺將漿水注在左手勺里,當中那么一刮,只聽油水“嘩”一聲,左手勺入鍋開炸。米漿里加摻糯米漿,還有香麻油、蔥花、芝麻、姜末等物,起鍋時,面窩兩面金黃,咬在嘴里那個酥、脆、軟。

        郝七先生嚼著半拉子面窩,常常邊吃邊看邊覺得有意思,說道,小謝啊,你這面窩做得不惜工本了,就不怕賠多賺少?

        小謝娘子已有喜,腆著肚子,用一雙長筷子幫著相公夾起面窩,替相公答話說,我倆口子是實誠性子,認定了生意要做得實在,那就不會虧到哪去!

        郝七先生聽了呵呵直樂,你倆口子好樣的,這也是營生之道,做人之道啊,做生意跟做人一樣的!

        郝七先生是前清翰林出身,學識淵博,以前給革命黨做過事,后來不做了,告老還鄉,自顧逍遙快活,也做些樂善好施事情。郝七先生好美食,是這里過早的常客。此時小謝想起一事問,七先生,您老德高望重,跟李貴也熟,他那里兩日沒開張,不知出了什么事?

        郝七先生捻須說,李貴么,他吃得好睡得香,一拳打死牛,他會有什么事?說是這么說,到底還是決定去看一看。

        這李貴在床上悶睡,聽見是七先生在外面叫他,就開了門。郝七先生一問,才知道是他為兒子離家出走的事煩憂了。

        李貴早年以賣涼粉和湯面為生,有天未賣完,怕天熱發餿,將面條煮熟瀝干,晾在案板上。手一慌,不得了,碰翻了麻油瓶。這李貴腦子好使,一不做二不休,索性油拌面重新晾上。次日將面條稍燙,入碗拌上涼粉的芝麻調料,竟香氣四溢,不比尋常。再嘗其面,軟綿爽口,透著一股子嚼勁。一經出售,路人爭相購食,問何名,李貴脫口答:熱干面。

        這也是無心插柳之功,成就一門新鮮手藝。李貴怕手藝丟失,一心想傳給兒子,留個“傳家寶”。不料兒子死活不肯,說難不成我像你這般沒出息?他爹逼他,他一生氣偷偷跑了,去了哪里也不知道。

        李貴兀自氣哼哼的,很多人想學我還不教哩,這小兔崽子,竟然瞧不上!他能干什么大事,能有多大出息?七先生你給我評評這個理!

        郝七先生笑道,你這樣蠻干,還談有理?也得他自愿不是?逼他是不行的!我看你也別著急上火,兒子是你的,終究會回來!至于你這門手藝,未必就要傳給你兒子,收個徒怎樣呢?會的人多,對百姓生活是件好事,未知你有沒有這個覺悟?!一番話把李貴點明白了,七先生,您有見識,我是個粗人,就聽您老的!

        老巷繼續過她的日子,不遐多想。

        晨曦下的老巷,還是人來人往,人頭攢動,絡繹不絕。食物誘人的香味,仿佛有股魔力,把人們拉向了這里,給人以生活被陶醉的暈眩感和刺激了生存本能的真實感——新的一天總是這樣開始,又開始;工農大眾、販夫走卒,穿洋服的學生,穿長袍的先生,穿軍裝的士兵……也有闊太太,這頭逛進來,那頭逛出去;喚下人買了面窩、油條,或是粉面、豆皮,用竹筷挑著,用食盒拎著……也有來頭不小的人,負手走入,也不曉得多大來頭,護兵倒有一堆;巷里都亂了陣,戰戰兢兢,立也不是,坐也不是。倒還好,倒不惡,指指點點,然后坐下吃,吃了付帳,走人。后來聽說是民國大總統,早前做過革命軍大都督的那人。

        真正有身份的人,不會跟地痞流氓相似,直接跟升斗小民過不去。人縱有貴賤都要吃飯,自已吃得好就不要讓別人吃不好。小巷的“好吃佬”形形色色,林林總總,相安無事多年,也是一樁奇事。

        那天偏走進個算命先生,手里舉著竹棍挑的招牌,吃了小謝的面窩,吃了李貴的熱干面,竟走出幾步醉態,打著飽嗝嚷道,就是這天變了,這老巷也不會變的!民以食為天!民就是天哪!……話里透著古怪,或許透著禪機。但無人留意,這天也就過去了。

        夜來風雨來,花落知多少。不知何時,武昌老城外面,是越來越近的槍炮響。忽如一夜,涌進不少逃荒的難民,塞滿了巷道。天剛明,老巷的人驚愕了,他們沒心思“過早”了,沒有心情品嘗美食了。郝七先生戴起一個紅袖箍,帶頭維持秩序。他讓店鋪都架鍋做饅頭,還啟開自家的庫房,搬出糧米、金帛等物。他胡須顫抖,老淚縱橫,從蒸籠里拿了個饅頭,遞給一個衣衫襤褸的孩子。小謝,李貴,還有其他人們,都加入到這場揚善行動中……

        民以食為天。郝七先生要上南京,用自己在弟子中的影響力去解決民生問題。然而,郝七先生沒有走到南京,就病死在驛途上。

        他的弟子,市府大員,拿到別人捎給他的一封長書,那是郝七先生親筆草就,字如龍蛇,看著看著,再看不下去,只是愁眉不語。

        李貴的兒子回來了,他在上海混出點名堂,回來是想跟爹商量,把小巷的美食移植到上海去。他看到的是老爹日思夜盼、憂思成疾的一張遺容。李貴的兒子恭恭敬敬磕了三個響頭,慘哭,兒不孝啊!從此再也沒有回來。

        都說民國氣數已盡,要不然,怎么讓人家渡了長江呢?老巷的人想,要變天了?!又想,只要有飯吃,就不怕!老巷的人都說,算命先生已說過,這巷子不會變,民以食為天啵!!

        深藏于八百街衢里的武昌戶部巷,不聽樹搖云動的聲音,香氣氤氳,溫煦如故;還是煙火塵色,還是人間眾生相。

        小謝夫婦的面窩店照常營業,只是,想起郝七先生的音容笑貌,小謝干活已提振不起往日那股精神,小謝娘子將相公推進屋里,自己執掌了做面窩的一應家伙事。巷子另一端,李貴的店鋪由徒弟小石頭經營,改名石記熱干面。

        戶部巷:明清年間,巷東是布政司存放錢糧的金庫和糧庫,巷西是武昌府的糧庫所在地,小巷位于兩個庫房之間。布政司主管錢糧戶籍,民間稱“戶部”,戶部巷因此得名。戶部巷以早點著稱,這與其在武昌的特殊地理環境有關。它靠近輪渡碼頭集中的中華路地段和商鋪、人口較為密集的司門口地段,乘客與市民外出順便“過早”(用早餐),促進了這里早點生意的興隆。

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